Adventures in hiking…

Bitten by a Rattler on the Pacific Crest Trail

Dazed and losing consciousness,  the shade of a scruffy manzanita tree was just ahead.  My calf had doubled in size due to the swelling.  Using my hiking poles as crutches, I would take a step and drag my leg.  Checking my cell phone for reception, my heart sank – no signal.  I tried dialing 911 anyway and the call failed.   Reaching the small patch  of shade, I crumpled on the dusty trail and took my pack off.   I fumbled for my SPOT Messenger, an emergency beacon, flipped the cover over the SOS button and pressed it.  After a minute, the light was green indicating that the message for help was transmitting.  The throbbing in my leg had ceased, replaced by a numbing sensation – similar to falling asleep on your arm.   I remember seeing the jagged peaks of the Ocotillos on the distant horizon and faded into a dream….

Living in Southern California,  I became interested in the Pacific Crest Trail or (PCT) soon after becoming an avid day hiker. The 2,600 mile trail begins at the U.S. – Mexican border near Campo, California and ends at E.C. Manning Park in British Columbia,  Canada. The southern terminus of the trail is marked with a monument, the border fence on the other side of a dirt road.  I’ve hiked sections of the PCT, usually 8-10 miles at a time.  At this rate, I would hike the entire PCT in 30 years.  The realities of life keep this thru-hike fantasy at bay.

Today, I would park almost 20 miles north of the trailhead  near the Lake Morena Campground and have a friend drop me off at the border near Campo.  He was on his way to Yuma, so it was only 12 miles out-of-the-way.  Dropping me off on the dirt road, I would walk to the border, touch the PCT marker and backtrack north.  I  waved to my friend as he pulled away on the dirt road and headed north.    Dust arose as the car faded in the distance.   How strange it must be for the Mexicans who witness the hikers that walk this desolate trail.  I’ve read that encounters with illegal immigrants are rare in the daytime down here.   At night, the human smugglers known as coyotes herd the immigrants through this area, often abandoning them at the first sign of trouble.  Human trafficking is a sad thing and I tried not to think about it.  On this fall day, the sun was out early to greet me.  The forecast had temps in the mid 80’s – not bad for the desert.  I had 4 liters of water and enough food for a couple of days.  Water is pretty scarce around here this time of year.  This would be my longest single mileage day since my trek on the Appalachian Trail in Maine.  I’ve worked up to the longer mileage and was fit enough to give it a go.   The sky was clear with a few wispy cirrus clouds.   Taking out my little camera, I had to get a shot of the beginning of this famous trail.

Southern Terminus of the PCT

It was so quiet out here because the sand and chaparral absorb most of the sound.  The occasional chatter of a Gambel’s Quail would break the silence.  Using my map, I would pick my way around fences, up dirt roads and past some ranches.  Passing through the little town of Campo, I would see a post office and a small store.  Walking across Hwy 94, I saw cars in the distance, the blacktop making them seem like a mirage.

Crossing some railroad tracks and an old jeep road, I was making good time.  Finding shade in the cleft of a boulder, I took a break.  The screech of a red-tail hawk on the hunt pierced the tranquility.  It was catching a morning updraft, conserving energy.   The trail was relatively easy to follow and the elevation was around 2,800-3000 ft.  Checking my GPS, it indicated my average speed was 2.8 mph.  I was on track to make it to my car by sundown.  While prepared to hike in the dark, it’s not something that I enjoy doing.   Around the 8 mile mark, I made the crest of a ridge and noticed a descent into a canyon, followed by a  300-400 ft climb.  I crossed another jeep road with a gate.  Time for another snack, but I would keep moving.  While unwrapping my snack bar, I remember looking up in time to avoid tripping over a rock.  The Pacific Rattler struck without warning.    I remember yelling and lunging forward, the adrenaline surging  through my body.  I must have run another 30-40 feet before stopping.  Looking back, the snake was still coiled under the rock near the trail.  The pain in my calf jolted me back into reality.  I dropped my poles and unfastened the nylon gaiter on my right leg.  Two small holes, one with blood on my calf.   The serpent had bitten me through the gaiter.  My initial reaction was one of panic.   Within a few minutes, the area around the bite burned like fire and the skin turned red and was swollen.  I got farther away from the snake and retrieved my cell phone to call for help.  No signal!   I was in a canyon with no reception.  At this point, I wasn’t worried about dying.  I knew that most rattlesnake bites were not fatal and that it was important to calm down so that I could make good decisions.   I had not seen one person since the little hamlet of Campo, so I prayed to my God for calm and asked Him to get me out of here.

Looking at my map, I was 9 miles into my 20 mile hike.  The campground was 10 miles to the north with a  1,200 foot climb.  Campo was 8 miles to the south.   Not knowing how the snake bite would affect me, I decided to head back south and prayed for a phone signal.  I made a detour around the wretched snake and  began to feel a bit lethargic and dizzy.  Sweat was dripping as my body reacted to the situation.  I drank more water and tried to stay calm.  Up ahead near the ridge, I noticed some scrubby trees and hoped for some shade.  My leg was swelling noticeably and I knew to leave my shoes on.  I made it to some manzanitas and dropped my pack.

Still no signal.  I knew what had to be done.  Six months earlier, I had purchased a GPS device that serves as an emergency beacon and allows for me to be tracked by family members on a website.  At the start of my hike, I transmitted the “OK” signal to my wife which sends an email and text to her cell phone with my location.  Now, I fumbled for the device and knew that I had to signal for help.  I flipped off the safety cover and pressed the SOS button.  After a minute, it blinked green indicating that it was transmitting.  Hopefully, help would be here within the hour.  Looking around, I noticed the tranquility and beauty of the land.  The Ocotillos mountain range was in the distance.  The last thing I remember was a slight buzz in my ears.

I remember having strange dreams.  In  one of my dreams, I was dressed up in a fat bunny suit and jumping through the neighbor’s yards.   I still don’t understand that dream.   It was bright when I woke up.  In a strange room, the beep, beep of the monitor and I.V. in my arm left no doubt where I was.  A  nurse came in and told me that it took three vials of antivenom to treat me.  My leg would be fine, albeit sore for a long time.

Later, I would be told that the San Diego County Sheriff’s Department  received the call from the company that monitors the SPOT GPS messenger.  The police chopper was on the scene within 55 minutes.  Working with the Border Patrol, they would make their way up a jeep road and haul me out on a 4 wheeler with a gurney.  A helicopter would land on Hwy 94 and take me to the hospital in El Cajon, 35 miles away.

Friends, fellow bloggers – at this point I must tell you that this story is a work of FICTION.  This didn’t really happen to me.  Have I seen rattlers on the trail?  Yes, many.  Normally, the rattlers are not aggressive and actually prefer to stay away from humans.  Most rattlesnake bite victims  are oblivious to the snake until they step on it or surprise it on the trail.  I can only tell you that if you do hike alone, ensure that someone knows where you are and take a cell phone.  Unfortunately, if you hike in remote areas, a cellular signal is not guaranteed.  For peace of mind,  I picked up an emergency beacon and  hope to never use it.  Be prepared for the chance rattler encounter and have a plan.   If you do stumble on one, freeze and allow it to retreat.  If it coils, slowly back  away and give it a wide berth.  The most common rattlers in Southern California are the Pacific and Diamondback.  In my experience, the Pacific Rattlers tend to be more defensive and will coil when threatened.  They have the ability to strike out at 40% of their length.  A coiled 6 foot rattler can lunge over 2.5 ft!   Most of my encounters have been in the afternoon.   I actually came within two feet of a coiled Pacific Rattler this past summer;  but for the grace of God was not bitten.   Enjoy your hike and be alert!

Trekking poles are also great because they can put some distance between you and a snake.  I highly recommend these made by Kelty: Kelty Upslope 2.0 Trekking Poles, Ano Blue

If you insist on walking through rattlesnake infested brush, at least consider these: Rattler Scaletech Snake Protection Gaiters (Green)

I use a Nikon 3000 series camera and have really been pleased with it.  It is easy to use and takes awesome pictures.  It’s durable and has survived many hiking and camping trips.  Nikon D3200 24.2 MP CMOS Digital SLR Camera with 18-55mm and 55-200mm Non-VR DX Zoom Lenses Bundle

11 responses

  1. writer77

    Western rattlers definitely have a more serious bite and venom than their eastern counterparts. Great story, cautionary and informative!

    September 24, 2012 at 8:16 am

  2. That’s one of the reasons why I also have a Spot. Good to know the story was fiction!

    September 24, 2012 at 11:48 am

  3. Agree Kyle, I think it was a good purchase too. After running into my 6th rattler this year, I thought that a story would be fun. With your writing skill, you should do a story.

    September 24, 2012 at 12:05 pm

  4. hahaha oh my gosh..i was reading this and thought, “wow why hasn’t anyone told me about this traumatic event yet?!” uncle john, you really had me going!

    September 24, 2012 at 11:35 pm

  5. Jérôme Gasser

    Hello, thank you for your advice.

    I am from Switzerland which is a great country for hiking. So I am use to long trails in our Alps. I would like to hike the PCT but I have to admit that rattlesnakes are putting me in a huge stress.

    All testimonies about the PCT mention that they have seen rattlesnakes. So It is a great concern for me. All the hikers are obsessed by the weight and are doing the PCT with trail shoes which are not very helpful against a rattlesnake bite. I prefer to hike with alpine shoes. I started to search on the net about solutions and I found an american company who is making special gaiter which protect you against rattlesnake bite.Also I would like to hire an iridium phone, so that you are sure that you can reach 911.

    What do you think ? I am to obsessed ?

    Thank you for your answer

    January 30, 2015 at 6:48 am

    • Hello Jerome and thank you for visiting my blog. While there are rattlesnakes on the trail, it is very rare to be bitten. Snakes do not want anything to do with humans and will avoid us when possible. Most encounters are when they are sunning in the middle of the trail. As long as you stay on the trail and not venture off into the brush you should be fine. The gaiters you mentioned are available, are quite heavy and usually only used by hikers who walk through heavy brush. It is rare to find a PCT thru hiker that wears gaiters. Bottom line, the rattlesnakes are not the aggressive creatures waiting to attack us. The iridium phone is a good idea, but can also be quite heavy. Hope that you can make it, the PCT is an amazing trek and we welcome our foreign visitors!

      February 1, 2015 at 7:55 am

  6. Pingback: Rattlesnakes on the PCT – Should I be Concerned? | the late bloomer hiker

  7. Hi. I’m a Norwegian guy that would like to use the opportunity to do a part of the PCT in mid-December before going to San Francisco for a Scientific Conference. I’ve got about a week available for walking. I would like to start from LA were I’ll arive by plane from Norway, and end up at Kennedy Meadows. I’m used to walking since that’s my way of getting to work at Andøya Space Center (http://www.andoyaspace.no), so I should be able to cover at least 20 km per day. Where do you recommend that I start my walking to enable me to end up at Kennedy Meadows on the 6th or 7th day?

    June 19, 2015 at 12:13 am

    • Hello Kolbjorn, greetings from America. The area 120-140km south of Kennedy Meadows (KM) is fairly desolate and dry. Near KM it is sub-alpine with beautiful views. To the south, the Mojave Desert is a long stretch with few roads and very few water sources. Mid-December is the beginning of the wet season so rain/snow is possible. The PCT crosses Hwy 58 about 35 miles east of BakersField, Ca. There is only one road into KM and they do close it if there is significant snow, so there is a risk that you would not have a ride out of there. Closer to LA, there are sections of the PCT that pass through the San Bernardino Mountains near Mount San Gorgonio or Mount San Jacinto. The scenery there is beautiful as well. Another thought is that if there is no significant snow on the ground or in the forecast is to hike from Mammoth Mtn into Yosemite, which is about 135km. It follows the John Muir Trail, an awesome trek. Again, check the weather as the Sierras can see significant snows.

      June 19, 2015 at 6:00 am

      • Hi again, and thanks for Your reply to me in June. I’ve adjusted my plans due to your tip, even though I’m born and raised in snowy and stormy northern Norway, I’ve got to make sure that my transport out can reach me due to commitments in San Francisco the following week. I’m thinking about this:

        Starting point at Walker Pass, where the PCT crosses Hwy 178. End will be at Tehachapi Pass, where PCT crosses Hwy 58.

        Both places should be good for pickup. It is a total of 86 mi in 6 days. What do you think about this in Mid-December?

        Best regards,
        Kolbjorn

        August 28, 2015 at 2:09 am

      • Hello Kolbjorn, this area is certainly possible that time of year. If you are heading south, it starts out around 1,500 meters. and drops down into the high desert of the Mojave. There are long stretches of the trail without water sources – sometimes 30km or more. It can be very windy and you will see many windmills. The desert is an amazing place at sunrise/sunset. The average temperatures range from 0 deg C to approximately 20C. If you have a tent, make sure you have enough stakes and guy lines to account for the wind. It should be an interesting hike!

        August 28, 2015 at 6:37 am

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